Sunday, May 10, 2009
Chamonix
Holidays in France are not evenly distributed throughout the year, and the month of May is lumpy with holidays. The 1st is Labor Day (Fête du Travail), the 8th is Victory in Europe Day (Fête de la Victoire 1945), and the 21st is Ascension Day (Ascension Catholique). These follow closely the Easter Monday (Lundi de Pâques) and the extra day we were given off for Good Friday in April. I will have worked 4 day weeks for over a month by the end of May. The additional time allows us to expand our travel range. For the 3-day Labor Day weekend we visited Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc in the French Alps.
We arrived late in the evening, receiving help on how to get to the hotel from some street walkers who saw us looking at our map in the car, and happened to pass the hotel receptionist who was leaving for the night. She was nice enough to direct us inside where we grabbed our key from the counter and found our room. This being the slow season, we had landed a room with a view of Mont Blanc. Chamonix is one of the towns in the valley below Mont Blanc, surrounded by towering white peaks on all sides. Houses stretch along the valley in the only instance of suburban sprawl I have seen in France: houses scramble up the slopes with large grass lawns.
If we were more than rudimentary skiers, we would have strapped on a pair, but we decided the Alps were too intimidating for us to learn the basics. Our activities would be confined to gawking at the scenery in our more familiar sneakers. We were fortunate to have perfect weather on Friday, with nary a cloud obscuring the brilliant blue sky. Walking across town we bought passes for the spectacular cable lift, Aiguille de Midi, which lifted us smoothly out of the green valley, hundreds of feet over the tall firs, then above glaring white snow, and finally steeply to the final destination over 12,600 feet above sea level, seemingly within reach of the peak of Mont Blanc. The views were jaw dropping. We could see for miles across seemingly endless white peaks. Exiting the car we brushed by the skiers prepping to for their long descent. Below us the skiers were hiking along a ridge of snow towards a more open snow bank where they would begin the several hour descent that would spit them out on Mer de Glace, the larges glacier in France. We spotted a few paragliders taking off from here also, there red sail nothing more than a spec against the looming peaks. We ascended the elevator to the top of the rocky outcrop and were within spitting distance of Mont Blanc. The air was thin and we moved a bit more slowly than normal to adjust. If we were visiting in the summer, the snow would have receded enough to allow hiking from a point about halfway down the mountain, but in May the snow is too deep to allow safe hiking. After eating a mile high lunch we took the cable car back, soaking in the dramatic views up and down the valley.
Once back in Chamonix, a short walk brought us to the cogwheel train to Mer de Glace. The train huffed us up the steep slopes through the forest, spitting us out high above the glacier. Then there were many steps down the side of the cliff to reach the glacier. The glacier has been studied for almost 200 years and has been rapidly melting recently. I’m sure Gore would be happy to use the glacier in his warming presentation, but it was interesting to read the comments on the displays describing the warming and cooling as long-term cycles; the current melting of the glacier began in the 1830’s. Skiers finishing their run passed us on the steps lugging skis and sweating profusely. At the base of the steps we entered the ice cave in the side of the glacier. Since the glacier is moving at a fairly rapid pace, almost an inch every 2 hours, the cave is remade on a daily basis. Inside there were rooms carved and an opportunistic photographer snapping photos with a St. Bernard dog for a few Euros.
Later in the afternoon we hiked to the grassy landing area for the paragliders. We saw multiple gliders soaring next to the peaks, gradually getting larger, and then quickly swooping in for a gentle landing. We closed the day with a nice dinner at a charming restaurant of cheese fondue for myself and tasty and fries for Shereen.
The weather was not quite so nice the next day; small clouds were already beginning to snuggle the peaks as we walked through town. We were planning to take another cable lift that extended up the opposite mountain from the day before, but it was closed for the season. Instead we walked steeply up to reach a trail down the valley. The trail was moderately challenging as it undulated along the mountain face through dense forest, occasionally popping out in a clearing with gorgeous views of the peaks opposite. We spent a couple of hours walking before descending a zigzag path to the valley floor, through a golf course, then to another cable lift that was running. We hopped aboard and enjoyed another soaring ride with the skiers. There wasn’t as much for non-skiers to do at the top, since the snow was blocking the hiking trails, so we did not spend too much time before returning. It was then a long walk back to Chamonix through the neighboring towns. Arriving late in the afternoon, we collapsed in the hotel for a few hours before dinner. We visited a more upscale restaurant, with friendly staff, plenty of mountain décor and stuffed animals on the walls, and excellent food. I enjoyed a cheesy veal dish with a unique, tasty side of cheese and small, square macaroni and Shereen got her salmon fix with vegetables (I think the salmon she makes herself was actually better than the one she was served!).
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Shereen Afoot
It’s me again!!
We finally had our first visitor, Jennifer. She wasn’t able to come to our apartment in Orleans due to her short visit of 4 days. Early Monday January 26, Shawn dropped me off at a nearby train station that took me all the way to CDG airport where I met up with Jennifer. From the airport we took the metro to our hotel room. It took us a while to find the hotel. To my dismay, we found the hotel in the dirty part of Paris with plenty of sex shops and gentlemen clubs. We found the hotel but weren’t able to check-in right away. So, we left our bags in the lobby and head into town.
A couple of weeks before Jennifer’s arrival she sent me an email requesting to visit the following sites in Paris: Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame, and walk along the Seine River. Walk along the Seine River?!?!?! Shawn and I saw the Seine River last September while celebrating our first wedding anniversary in Paris, and didn’t think the Seine River was THAT big of a deal. However, according to Jennifer, the Seine River is on the top of things to do in Paris based on some website. I have one word to say to that, Gross!! The river is dirty; the water has this greenish brownish color to it, and it is definitely not one of the places I would like to see. However, the river was on the way to Notre Dame, so it’s not like we had to go out of our way to see a disgusting river. We got to the river and Jennifer admitted that it looked much nicer in a picture she has seen online than in reality. Oh, there was bird poop on the bridge which got on my hand and every time I tried to wipe it off on the bridge I seemed to get more poop on my hand. Gross!!
We made it to Notre Dame and Jennifer really wanted to go up to view the city, but I didn’t want to for 2 reasons. First, I wanted my first time to go up Notre Dame to be with Shawn. Second, nothing will beat the Eiffel tower view which we were planning to see that same day. So, I waited for Jennifer to climb up Notre Dame at a nearby coffee shop.
After Notre Dame we decided to go back to the hotel to check-in. The hotel room was not very spacious which is typical here in Europe, but it was clean.
A few hours later we left the hotel room and went out. We took the metro to Champs-Elysees, my all time favorite road in Paris. Why? Google it! I have been to the Champs-Elysees before, but going there at night was a different experience. The trees, roads, and shops were lightened up so nicely. Whether it is daytime or nighttime, I will always love Champs-Elysees. At the end of the Champs-Elysees is located the Arc de Triomphe which also looks different at night. Then we walked to the Eiffel Tower and climbed all the way up. We tried to take pictures of the city, but the pictures didn’t come out so good because it was too dark. I should try to convince Shawnee to get me a better camera.
By this point Jennifer and I were starving. We found a busy restaurant (which is always a good sign of good food) by the Eiffel tower. We sat down and looked at the menu and shortly after we walked out. Why? A hamburger sandwich is listed for 18 Euros which at that same day (according to exchange rates) was equivalent to $25.00. Jennifer and I looked at each other and decided to walk out. The waiters weren’t so happy about that, but oh well. They’ll never see us again.
We decided to eat somewhere closer to our hotel and got to see the dirty side of Paris at night. We found a nice restaurant and ordered a taste of home; a Club Sandwich.
The next morning we had to get up super early to catch a train to London and we barely made it on time. I thought that taking trains in Europe to go anywhere in Europe wouldn’t take time, hop on a train and I am on my way, but it’s not like that. Apparently, train stations across Europe conduct security checks just like the airports. Direction signs in France aren’t very helpful. We were able to identify the left and right arrows, but up and down arrows were another story. Actually, there were no down arrows; and up arrows either meant straight or up, but when you have one arrow pointing up and have 2 options, straight or up, which one do you take? We were so confused. We made it to just in time and at that point I was so hungry and didn’t want to leave the train to get food in case it left without me. The train was very comfortable and fast, it took a little over 3 hours to our final destination, London. Also, one of the train cars had a café in it with tables and chairs, just like the movies, and I was able to satisfy my hunger through the café on the train.
We made it London and things seem to be a bit smoother than in Paris; people spoke English, signs were easy to read and understand, and did I mention people spoke English? In London, right away, I noticed how nice people are. The English go out of their ways to help; they are so nice and polite. In the metro, on our way to our hotel, my bag kept hitting people passing by and they’d turn to me and apologize which made no sense to me. Why are they apologizing for something they didn’t do? My bag hit them. Of course I explained that MY bag hit them, they don’t owe me an apology, I owe them to apologize. Those English are really funny!
Our hotel in London was in a much better location than the one we stayed in Paris. And it was spacious and clean. AHHH I love London. First thing I did as soon as made it to our room is turn the TV on; I really wanted to hear English TV. We relaxed for a few and then headed out to eat. Then it was time to explore the city. We went to the typical London tourist places such as, the Tower Bridge, the London Tower, the London Bridge and ended our day with the London Eye. The next morning we went to the Westminster Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, The Buckingham Palace, and Big Ben (House of Parliament). We got to the Buckingham Palace early to watch the change of guards, but it was cancelled due to rainy weather conditions. Everything in London, including the food, was great. At the Manchester Cathedral I found holy water coming out of a faucet (of course I filled up my water bottle to taste). Also at the House of Parliament there were 5-7 different groups lobbying in front of congress: legalize weed, stop airport expansion, stop genocide in Sri Lanka, and stop the war on Iraq. Each group took turn to voice their concern through a microphone, like I said before the English are so polite. Near our hotel in London we found this awesome Italian restaurant, yum yum!!
After some lovely times in London, it was time to go back to Paris. The day before we left for Paris, Shawn warned me that there might be a strike in Paris. I decided not to worry about it and go to sleep, but before I fell asleep I had to get some English TV fix before leaving the country.
The next morning we woke up early to catch the train back to Paris. I had a little difficulty purchasing my last metro ticket to the train station. I had no cash on me and the sales person would not accept my credit card because it wasn’t signed. I tried to sign it but didn’t have a ballpoint pen to sign with. After 10 minutes of arguing back and forth with the salesman, I finally purchased my last ticket. Jennifer and I looked at the metro map one more time to confirm our destination. We found the metro, but as soon as I hopped on the door closed and Jennifer and I got separated. The metro kept on stopping every 2 minutes for 5 minutes; I didn’t think it’d make it to the train on time. I started to get worried about not catching my train so I kept looking at the map counting how many stations until I make it to my destination and that’s when I realized that I was on the train. I was hoping that Jennifer would figure out a way to get to the train station and catch the train. I would have called her to warn her but I didn’t have a phone on me.
Finally, I made it to the train station and was glad to find Jennifer waiting. Three hours later we made it to Paris and realized that Shawn was right about the strike in Paris. It took us forever to find a metro that would take us to our hotel, not all the metro lines were working due to the strike. Two hours later we made it to the hotel and at this point I was dead tired and all I wanted to do was sleep. Jennifer and I went into town and grabbed lunch. The city was shut down, all stores were closed, but it was full of people. After lunch Jennifer went to the Louvre while I slept for a couple of hours. Apparently I wasn’t the only one tired because Jennifer slept for a couple of hours too after she got back from the Louvre.
After a couple hours of rest we headed into town. We made it to the metro station, got on the metro, then 2 stations later it just stopped. A voice came on the intercom said something in French which I didn’t understand, but all of the sudden we saw people get off of the metro. We looked at the map, figured out which metro to take and 2 stations after it came to a complete stop. I think we were underground for a few hours. Finally we made it somewhere close enough to our final destination, but on the way out of the metro station I smelled something funny and I looked behind and was startled by the army of cops behind me ready to attack. As soon as we got out of the train station I was shocked to see more cops, people shouting, and smoke. At this point Jennifer was getting scared and wanted to go back to the hotel room, but I wanted to stay and check this thing out. We were starving but everything was closed except for this small Arabic restaurant. We ate and it took us a little over an hour to finally make it back to our hotel room.
We didn’t know how long the strike was going to last, so we asked the hotel to get a cab for Jennifer first thing in the morning so that she wouldn’t miss her flight. We wanted to be safe than sorry. Surprisingly, the cab showed up on time and Jennifer was on her way to the airport and I left to come back to home.
We finally had our first visitor, Jennifer. She wasn’t able to come to our apartment in Orleans due to her short visit of 4 days. Early Monday January 26, Shawn dropped me off at a nearby train station that took me all the way to CDG airport where I met up with Jennifer. From the airport we took the metro to our hotel room. It took us a while to find the hotel. To my dismay, we found the hotel in the dirty part of Paris with plenty of sex shops and gentlemen clubs. We found the hotel but weren’t able to check-in right away. So, we left our bags in the lobby and head into town.
A couple of weeks before Jennifer’s arrival she sent me an email requesting to visit the following sites in Paris: Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame, and walk along the Seine River. Walk along the Seine River?!?!?! Shawn and I saw the Seine River last September while celebrating our first wedding anniversary in Paris, and didn’t think the Seine River was THAT big of a deal. However, according to Jennifer, the Seine River is on the top of things to do in Paris based on some website. I have one word to say to that, Gross!! The river is dirty; the water has this greenish brownish color to it, and it is definitely not one of the places I would like to see. However, the river was on the way to Notre Dame, so it’s not like we had to go out of our way to see a disgusting river. We got to the river and Jennifer admitted that it looked much nicer in a picture she has seen online than in reality. Oh, there was bird poop on the bridge which got on my hand and every time I tried to wipe it off on the bridge I seemed to get more poop on my hand. Gross!!
We made it to Notre Dame and Jennifer really wanted to go up to view the city, but I didn’t want to for 2 reasons. First, I wanted my first time to go up Notre Dame to be with Shawn. Second, nothing will beat the Eiffel tower view which we were planning to see that same day. So, I waited for Jennifer to climb up Notre Dame at a nearby coffee shop.
After Notre Dame we decided to go back to the hotel to check-in. The hotel room was not very spacious which is typical here in Europe, but it was clean.
A few hours later we left the hotel room and went out. We took the metro to Champs-Elysees, my all time favorite road in Paris. Why? Google it! I have been to the Champs-Elysees before, but going there at night was a different experience. The trees, roads, and shops were lightened up so nicely. Whether it is daytime or nighttime, I will always love Champs-Elysees. At the end of the Champs-Elysees is located the Arc de Triomphe which also looks different at night. Then we walked to the Eiffel Tower and climbed all the way up. We tried to take pictures of the city, but the pictures didn’t come out so good because it was too dark. I should try to convince Shawnee to get me a better camera.
By this point Jennifer and I were starving. We found a busy restaurant (which is always a good sign of good food) by the Eiffel tower. We sat down and looked at the menu and shortly after we walked out. Why? A hamburger sandwich is listed for 18 Euros which at that same day (according to exchange rates) was equivalent to $25.00. Jennifer and I looked at each other and decided to walk out. The waiters weren’t so happy about that, but oh well. They’ll never see us again.
We decided to eat somewhere closer to our hotel and got to see the dirty side of Paris at night. We found a nice restaurant and ordered a taste of home; a Club Sandwich.
The next morning we had to get up super early to catch a train to London and we barely made it on time. I thought that taking trains in Europe to go anywhere in Europe wouldn’t take time, hop on a train and I am on my way, but it’s not like that. Apparently, train stations across Europe conduct security checks just like the airports. Direction signs in France aren’t very helpful. We were able to identify the left and right arrows, but up and down arrows were another story. Actually, there were no down arrows; and up arrows either meant straight or up, but when you have one arrow pointing up and have 2 options, straight or up, which one do you take? We were so confused. We made it to just in time and at that point I was so hungry and didn’t want to leave the train to get food in case it left without me. The train was very comfortable and fast, it took a little over 3 hours to our final destination, London. Also, one of the train cars had a café in it with tables and chairs, just like the movies, and I was able to satisfy my hunger through the café on the train.
We made it London and things seem to be a bit smoother than in Paris; people spoke English, signs were easy to read and understand, and did I mention people spoke English? In London, right away, I noticed how nice people are. The English go out of their ways to help; they are so nice and polite. In the metro, on our way to our hotel, my bag kept hitting people passing by and they’d turn to me and apologize which made no sense to me. Why are they apologizing for something they didn’t do? My bag hit them. Of course I explained that MY bag hit them, they don’t owe me an apology, I owe them to apologize. Those English are really funny!
Our hotel in London was in a much better location than the one we stayed in Paris. And it was spacious and clean. AHHH I love London. First thing I did as soon as made it to our room is turn the TV on; I really wanted to hear English TV. We relaxed for a few and then headed out to eat. Then it was time to explore the city. We went to the typical London tourist places such as, the Tower Bridge, the London Tower, the London Bridge and ended our day with the London Eye. The next morning we went to the Westminster Cathedral, Westminster Abbey, The Buckingham Palace, and Big Ben (House of Parliament). We got to the Buckingham Palace early to watch the change of guards, but it was cancelled due to rainy weather conditions. Everything in London, including the food, was great. At the Manchester Cathedral I found holy water coming out of a faucet (of course I filled up my water bottle to taste). Also at the House of Parliament there were 5-7 different groups lobbying in front of congress: legalize weed, stop airport expansion, stop genocide in Sri Lanka, and stop the war on Iraq. Each group took turn to voice their concern through a microphone, like I said before the English are so polite. Near our hotel in London we found this awesome Italian restaurant, yum yum!!
After some lovely times in London, it was time to go back to Paris. The day before we left for Paris, Shawn warned me that there might be a strike in Paris. I decided not to worry about it and go to sleep, but before I fell asleep I had to get some English TV fix before leaving the country.
The next morning we woke up early to catch the train back to Paris. I had a little difficulty purchasing my last metro ticket to the train station. I had no cash on me and the sales person would not accept my credit card because it wasn’t signed. I tried to sign it but didn’t have a ballpoint pen to sign with. After 10 minutes of arguing back and forth with the salesman, I finally purchased my last ticket. Jennifer and I looked at the metro map one more time to confirm our destination. We found the metro, but as soon as I hopped on the door closed and Jennifer and I got separated. The metro kept on stopping every 2 minutes for 5 minutes; I didn’t think it’d make it to the train on time. I started to get worried about not catching my train so I kept looking at the map counting how many stations until I make it to my destination and that’s when I realized that I was on the train. I was hoping that Jennifer would figure out a way to get to the train station and catch the train. I would have called her to warn her but I didn’t have a phone on me.
Finally, I made it to the train station and was glad to find Jennifer waiting. Three hours later we made it to Paris and realized that Shawn was right about the strike in Paris. It took us forever to find a metro that would take us to our hotel, not all the metro lines were working due to the strike. Two hours later we made it to the hotel and at this point I was dead tired and all I wanted to do was sleep. Jennifer and I went into town and grabbed lunch. The city was shut down, all stores were closed, but it was full of people. After lunch Jennifer went to the Louvre while I slept for a couple of hours. Apparently I wasn’t the only one tired because Jennifer slept for a couple of hours too after she got back from the Louvre.
After a couple hours of rest we headed into town. We made it to the metro station, got on the metro, then 2 stations later it just stopped. A voice came on the intercom said something in French which I didn’t understand, but all of the sudden we saw people get off of the metro. We looked at the map, figured out which metro to take and 2 stations after it came to a complete stop. I think we were underground for a few hours. Finally we made it somewhere close enough to our final destination, but on the way out of the metro station I smelled something funny and I looked behind and was startled by the army of cops behind me ready to attack. As soon as we got out of the train station I was shocked to see more cops, people shouting, and smoke. At this point Jennifer was getting scared and wanted to go back to the hotel room, but I wanted to stay and check this thing out. We were starving but everything was closed except for this small Arabic restaurant. We ate and it took us a little over an hour to finally make it back to our hotel room.
We didn’t know how long the strike was going to last, so we asked the hotel to get a cab for Jennifer first thing in the morning so that she wouldn’t miss her flight. We wanted to be safe than sorry. Surprisingly, the cab showed up on time and Jennifer was on her way to the airport and I left to come back to home.
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